CAPE COD ATTRACTS A DIFFERENT BREED OF TOURIST (8/17/01)

From the Falmouth Enterprise: “VOICE OF AUDUBON: The best birding in the state right now seems to be on the Cape. Watchers at Monomoy this past week discovered hundreds of Wilson’s petrels, a few sooty shearwaters, eiders and parasitic jaegers. Also 29 Hudsonian godwits, several whimbrels, 2 dunlins, greater shearwaters and black tern. Nauset hosted 15 black skimmers,thousands of semipalmated sandpipers and hundreds of knots.” August 15, 1961

The above report from the Falmouth Enterprise,written 50 years ago, would not be too out of line had it been written this very week. Although shorebird numbers vary from year to year, there is a constancy to them that spans the years. Black skimmers today are more common in the Eastham area than they are

In my last column I talked about the beautiful and interesting terns that migrate to Cape Cod each year and attract birdwatchers from all over. This time my focus is on shorebirds. Many of the “hottest” spots to enjoy these visitors center around Chatham: the tip of Morris Island, Monomoy National Wildlife Refuge, and South Beach. Other places where these birds congregate are at Mass. Audubon’s Wellfleet Bay Sanctuary and at various sites within the National Seashore.

Unlike our human tourists who flock here to frolic and soak up the sun, shorebirds are visiting with a more serious-minded purpose. They are here to feed on marine worms, insects, crustaceans and mollusks in order to replenish their fat deposits before continuing their long migration that for most began on the Arctic tundra and for many won’t end until they reach the southern tip of South America, a distance of 12,000 miles.

Shorebirds, for those of you who want to know but are afraid to ask, comprise many families of birds, including oystercatchers, stilts, avocets, plovers, turnstones, sandpipers and phalaropes. Although it may sound as though any bird of the shore, such as terns, gulls and ducks, is included in the overall term, this is not so.

In order to help you enjoy these birds to the fullest, here are some pointers about identification features of different families. A very few common species make up around 80-90% of what you’ll see, so if you can identify even a few, you’ll be on your way. To see shorebirds well, it really helps if you have binoculars (or even better, a telescope), as the extra magnification of these optics provides a more detailed look at individual birds, especially those that remain at a considerable distance.

Being able to look through a scope can certainly open up a wonderful world! If you do not own a scope, keep your eyes open for someone who does, who most likely will be glad to share a view with you. Better yet, so that you get the fullest measure of instruction and appreciation for these often overlooked birds, join one of the many groups led by a professional birder that visit the best viewing spots. The Cape Cod Times publicizes these trips, and Mass. Audubon’s Wellfleet Bay Sanctuary (508-349-2617), the Cape Cod Museum of Natural History, Brewster (508-896-3867) and the National Seashore have information about their trips.

Most of you are probably already familiar with the sanderling, the little bird that runs in and out with the advancing and retreating waves. Sanderlings are usually in their pale gray plumage when we see them, although in breeding plumage their upper parts are reddish to orange-brown. Get their 8” size fully in your head, so that you can relate the size of other birds to them.

Two of the prime shorebird stopovers in Chatham, South Beach, 2-miles out from the beach below the lighthouse and Monomoy Wildlife Refuge, are reachable by private boat or water taxi. Restrictions limiting access to parts of Monomoy in order to protect nesting birds until around the middle of August do not interfere with shorebird watching.

To access the tip of Morris Island, you must go through the Monomoy Wildlife Headquarters’ property on Morris Island. From the lighthouse, take Morris Island Road. After you cross the causeway leading to the island, a sign will point you to the headquarters building at the first left turn. From there you walk down the long stairway to the beach, turn right and walk to the very end. To see the greatest number of birds, plan to go there at low tide.

Once there you are apt to see the handsome black, brown and white unmistakable American oystercatcher, a bird 19” long with a bright red bill. Usually in this area are also black-bellied plovers, 4” larger than the sanderling. In full breeding plumage, these stout, almost neckless-appearing birds, have a black throat and belly, but as they begin changing into winter plumage, they appear grayish overall. Plovers feed by running a short distance, stopping and then perhaps probing for a goody they have detected hiding in the wet sand below.

Another plover, the semipalmated may be present here, too. Only 7” long, it is dark brown above and has a prominent, unbroken, dark neck ring. It also runs and stops, runs and stops. Another plover you probably hope to view is the piping plover, cause of both agitation and celebration, depending upon your particular point of view. These 7” pale sand-colored birds with a less conspicuous neck band than the semipals are an endangered species and one of the few shorebirds that breed on the Cape.

Groups of red knots and short-billed dowitchers usually feed here in puddles and recently uncovered sand flats, which is why low tide is so good for viewing these birds. You will need a field guide to help you identify these two species, but one way to recognize the dowitchers is by their method of feeding, described as a “sewing needle action.” When you see them, you’ll understand what I mean.

Shorebirds often feed in mixed groups. Ruddy turnstones are a distinctive species, being 8”, heavily patterned with a black bib and orange legs. Yellowlegs, both greater (14”) and lesser (10”) sport bright yellow legs and have longer bills than most of the other species. They feed by walking and probing through water rather than on bare sand. Integrating with these more obvious shorebirds are often a myriad of difficult to identify small sandpipers. Best to leave their identification for another lesson or for the instruction of a guide.

Chatham is certainly not the only location where shorebirds congregate. Most anywhere on the long expanse of of the north shore side of the Cape which uncovers at low tides to expose sand flats can be productive. For a comprehensive description of other sites, use Birding Cape Cod, which will direct you to all parts of the Cape. You will also be greatly aided in your ability to identify shorebirds if you use a field guide. Both of these books are available at bookstores and shops that specialize in bird supplies.

One last word. Dogs. When you see and understand the intensity with which shorebirds feed in order to fuel their bodies for their extraordinary flights to Latin America, you can understand why frequent disturbances cause them serious setbacks. So, if you take your dog to the beach, please keep him on a lease when you are in an area where shorebirds are feeding.

Cape Codders are very fortunate to have this other breed of tourist, as shorebirds can be extremely enjoyable to watch and study. A chance to experience them can add a wonderful dimension to your vacation.

GRAPHIC: Black Skimmer by Joyce Leary, Dennis